Changes in Cambodia

There’s an unusual cry in the distance.  It’s not a child’s cry, it’s a cry of a large bird  who's call we have not heard before.  The bird, an  extraordinary piercing sound, intermittently echoes  ‘ouuu, ,ouuu,  ouuu,  three consecutive times before it stops for a brief time, for a pause, before its repertoire begins all over again.

March was once again a month filled with events, activities and a gradual wind-down with VSO’s this and that of completing forms and alike ...  March was also filled with a number of new changes for the good of the people, for the good of Cambodia here in the beautiful hills of Mondolkiri.

At the start of the Month, the ICS youth gang arrived in Sen Monorom and Kevin and I were invited once again by the ICS team leader to welcome the new ICS youth cycle from the UK and Cambodia, over a dinner affair at Toum Noum Tmey Restaurant.  Jacob, the new UK team leader told us that the ICS cycle are starting all over again; meaning that Cycle 3 is now Cycle 1 again adding a new dimension to their programme :)  Later in the week I met up with the former  VSO country director in an attempt to help him set up the programm for the  new ICS youths. 

March 2, Savy, our landlady, in her excitement was pacing to and fro for proof of identity to obtain a Japanese Visa.   Sukhon and Savy had planned to fly  to Japan for the first time in their lives, to join a tour guide for a 10- day tour (in Japan) with other Cambodians.  At first we thought it odd,  that Savy wanted our house contract (which we gave her).  However, this was to ensure that she and Sukhon were Cambodian citizens.  More importantly, that both the owners had indeed  a home address in Cambodia proving that their intention was indeed to return to their homeland after the tour.   We later learned that it was the owner’s doctor that had initially invited Sukhon and Savy to join him and his family on this tour.

Other news. A change in Cambodia is coming to reality, especially in this part of the world.  Mondolkiri province.   Cambodia, as we know it, normally runs on  slow  time and we think that it may have something to do with the heat;  it’s hot in the dry season, and it’s  hot in the rainy season.  Aside from being an agrarian culture where timely activities for food production will always be a priority and critical for the people, the fact of the matter is, that everything else appears to run on slow time.  However, there is change in the horizon.   Recently, our Khmer local neighbour announced to us that his wife, who’s presently been placed at the ACLEDA bank Plc., in Kaov Seima district, now works 5 days a week, 8-9 hours a day.   As for him, he told  us that he was horrified with the hours that his wife had to work, and that he could not fathom working these long hours himself; his present working hours at the Health Centre  are usually short.  Incomprehensibly short, from 8 – 9 am.  And, he is normally sent home, from work, for the rest of the day …  Unlessss, there’s an event or celebration he is required to attend, then he might be at work for a half a day the most … Unbelievable :)

Elsewhere in Sen Monorom, Sen Monorom town is in the midst of building a hangout place – a first hacky sack  playground of its kind in Mondolkiri province for Khmer youths who love to play in groups of 6 – 9 throwing about a hacky sack or shuttle cock with their feet to each other.  Another change for the better in the beautiful hills of Mondolkiri.

As for work at the POE education complex, the IT POE  trainer announced that he had twins. Boys!  Chhrovy told me that he had not given his sons a name yet,  even though they are already  9 weeks old.  This is because, Chhrov's father is not only very busy getting ready for the Khmer New Year, but also, it is the Cambodian tradition for the grandfather to have the honour and duty to name his two grandsons and, to discuss appropriate names suitable for the  twin boys with the rest of the family.  

As for work in the villages, we had several workshops and follow ups.  Roads to the villages had become sketchier, had become 'loose' powdery roads, which made our motorbike slip, skid here and there to a point that we almost ran into a car coming towards us due to the blustery winds composed of dust bellowing up to our eyes and blocking our view, not to mention with the aid of heavy truck passers by....

March was also a very busy  month in an attempt to gradually wind down with our activities, replacing them with filling VSO forms and more forms for our exit pass. 

Having a beer break at the POE with Novuth, Bunthy, Socheat and other colleagues

March 8 was International Women’s Day.   However, it’s never too late to wish all you beautiful bright - intelligent women, A very Happy ‘belated’  International Women’s Day.  And, to the men that stands behind you.   On that day, together with  my Khmer partners in crime - Novuth,  Bunthy, Socheat and other colleagues , we had beer and pork belly for snack  mid afternoon, taking a small 'Somrak'  a break from work …. This was to also celebrate the wonderful times we had together during my near 3 years with them at work, at the POE. 

On that celebration note, wishing all you a wonderful April, happiness and lots of laughter … 

More later ... :)

Anyone for a unique experience?

- in getting a hair wash the Khmer way ...? 

Bunong market 

Tap Tap Tap.  Hands frantically beating motorbike seats, to brush away the red dust that's accumulated over a brief stop to shop at the now shrunk little Bunong market on the open airstrip.

Tap Tap Tap.   With already 'dusty' cloths, colleagues at work, hit their desks several times a day to clear the dust away from their books, their computers, their documents only to find that the reddish-brown powdery dust  landed on their faces.

ta-ap ta-ap ta-ap.  Careful not to intrude on the talcum powder dust, carefully stepping one foot forward on the dusty stairs, the dust still bellows up and lands on our feet, legs, everywhere :) 

Bush fires everywhere

February was no different than the last two months; we had dusty, blustery cold days, accompanied by continual fragments of loud shutters banging against walls, dogs yelping day and night, motorbikes roaring past, endless talks and, laughter – a good problem, from the community below, and more of this and that, that rolled together like a ball and landed onto our veranda.    Added to the racket,  earlier this month, some of our neighbours who are of Chinese descent marked the Chinese New Year by lighting firecrackers and burning paper money for good fortune, happiness, longevity...   Despite the good intentions of this worthwhile celebration, the remains, the ashes from our neighbours, blew in the air and swiftly landed in our veranda.  Not to mention, the combination of our well-known  ‘friendly’ reddish-brown dust, together with smoke from nearby bush-fires that too, quietly snuck in the house when we weren’t looking :)   Despite, it's never-ending vortex of action in and out of our house,  at sundown, our eyes will naturally divert to the peaceful brilliant sky that offers stunning sunsets and lets you forget all, at least for a short while.  

It’s been a month with many activities and events, in particular with work.  In courtesy of VSO Cambodia, I gave another presentation to the new VSO volunteers during their ICO (formerly ICT) training, this time, on ‘Networking in the workplace’.  While we were in Phnom Penh, Tralore and I had another unique ‘hair washing’ experience, the Khmer way, at the diamond in the rough little salon. As always we were greeted with a warm welcome. And of course, while Tralore and I were having a good hair 'scrub', together with a good head-shoulder-neck massage. Wow., Kevin spent time talking to the local men that soon surrounded the little salon.  (See post: March 21, 2015 - Diamond in the Rough)  During our short time in Phnom Penh, we also, had the opportunity to reconnect with Dararoth, former VSO education manager to play catch-up with our by-monthly news. 

Rubber tree plantation

On our return to Mondolkiri, from a workshop in Phnom Penh,  as per usual,  during our  5 1/2 hour minivan ride with Virak Bumthum Express,  the journey  still seem to be composed of three main parts with the view that changes with the season.  On our way out of Phnom Penh, though the roads have improved 100%, we inevitably hit a traffic jam  just at the bottom of the Tonlé Sap ramp before our ride begins to speed up to the start of the first stretch  from Phnom Penh to Memot. The country side is mostly made up of flat open rice fields, now mostly bone dry in the scorching hot sun, due to lack of rain;  In the horizon are buffalos looking for, of what’s left, trickled water here and there to cool themselves off, ox,  and, beautiful pink lotuses, in sync with the wind, barely dance in the now trickled water that will soon dry up to cracked soil, that will sadly resemble the rice fields.  The second stretch of the journey, from Memot to Sneoul changes and is replaced with rubber tree plantations, Kempot pepper farms,  cassava farms that line the main National road.   The last stretch to the beautiful hills of Mondolkiri, my favourite part of the journey, the view is composed mainly of  dense forests, open green lush grassland dotted with humble homes in the highlands, skylined with bright coloured attire working in the fields.

Training workshop on the value of education

Back in Mondolkiri, February was a month where we did a number of workshop trainings and follow-ups  in and out of the villages and at the education complex.   This included the 3^rd week of this month, aka Technical Thursday, where we went to Kaov Seima district to train teachers, school directors and village chiefs on the document that was printed last month; On the value of education.  The training  was done in two parts:  what sustainability in the school system looked like - keeping children in school, equity and inclusion, and, how to best implement this tool, these activities in the classroom to raise awareness on the value of education.  The second part of the workshop entailed why children dropped out of school and what educators and the community can do to overcome these problems.

Winner of poster competition 

Wood for building a new school

Elsewhere in the villages, we also went to Sre Y Village school to train teachers, the school chief, students  and members of the community with the same aforementioned topic, and, at the same time to hand out the books ‘The road to prosperity –my education –my life’  to teachers and to the winners of the poster competition.   Unfortunately, the first winner was unable to collect her book, because she was out in the forest collecting resin with her family. We  did however, return to the school later for a follow up, and luckily the 13 year girl who was away collecting resin with her family, was at school for the  follow up activities and to collect her book.   Moreover, during our follow-up visit at Sre Y village school, we were told that Caritas, a long term NGO who had

Follow-up activities 

previously helped this village with a number of health projects, had planned to  build a  brand new school for the people, for Sre Y Village School now that the road to the village is in better condition and equipment can easily be transported to the village.   We saw wooden planks strewn everywhere and children who saw the school, temporarily, transformed into a huge playground, bounced up and down these planks using them like teeter totters or seesaws . The  school chief, not at all amused by this, had to repeatedly remind the children to stop playing on the planks, because the newly cut wood was for building a school,  a brand new school for them - the children.  Construction is to begin the first week of April, during the children’s 3 week Khmer New Year
holiday :) 

After one of our training at the education complex in Sen Monorom Town, my helmet mysteriously went missing for an overnight ride.  The traveling helmet travelled from one village to another and ended up, first, at HunSen Sen Monorom School ,and finally landed at one of the cluster chief’s house in Sen Monorom.  Rationale:  someone had confused it with someone else’s motorbike helmet :)

Baby Alice 

Other news, GreeN garbage containers made out of rubber, from nearby rubber trees, now line the streets of Sen Monorom Town.  The town recently won a prize for being green and keeping the city clean.  Indeed a definite milestone for Cambodia!  

February was a month of delight, where we, Kevin and I went to yet to another wedding, this time, to one of our neighbour’s wedding.  We sat with a group of jovial men who wanted an English lesson from us, asking if they could practice their oral English with us.    Added to this delight, of asking us for a small favour, one of my Khmer translator - Voleak, one of my assistant’s mother who had a beautiful baby girl, had asked if she could name her newborn baby, Alice.  Further, as a way of celebrating Valentines’ day, my Khmer/Bunong women colleagues from work, took me out for a surprise lunch,  for a delicious bowl of Khmer vegetable noodle soup with spring rolls, at the little family food stall just off  the Hun Sen Sen Monorom High School campus.  We were gone from work   for more than two hours  - from 2 to 4:30 pm - and,  went home from work at 5 pm :) 

On that delightful note, Happy Valentinés day to all you  – wishing you fun reading and lots of laughter ..

More later:)

In the blink of an Eye

Time has passed quickly with only two months left to go ....

Music blaring, dogs barking, electrical saws roaring away as if there is no tomorrow …  How unusual!  How is it possible for a small rural town, of 10,000 people, to generate so much hullabaloo?

A Tsunami of thoughts rushes through my head.  Yes, the time is nearing and soon it will be time to pack, to leave?    I am reminded by the thought that I still have a zillion things to do; trainings, follow-ups, tying loose ends and off course getting rid of all the stuff that we’ve accumulated at home and at work before our exit.  Except that my thoughts are constantly interrupted by the noise, the wind bellowing in and out of the verandah, accompanied by a swirl of reddish brown dust that lands everywhere in our open element house.  We’re further interrupted by the landlady, who this time has come up, not to give us food,  but to give us yet another floor washing demonstration, to wash the saffron red dust off the floorboards that will stay clean for mere seconds… 

It’s hard to believe that we’ve been here for almost 3 years, but somehow it feels like only yesterday, when we had just arrived, having had an adrenaline rush of meeting new people, learning a new language … being introduced to a new culture …. it truly feels as if we've simply passed through the Kingdom of Wonder in the blink of an eye …   And, yes, with a snap of a finger, the two months that we have left  here, will vanish just like that!  

Alright, it’s time to dry myself from my cool shower, put some coconut oil to keep my skin moist from the wind, have breakfast, gather my things for work :)

More later :)

Bunong Voices

... Mondolkiri 's Governor Replaced

Today, on the air strip, a ceremony, well attended by government officials,  (including the POE staff), was conducted by the Ministry of Interior Affairs, to appoint a new Governor for Mondolkiri province.  See below ‘The Cambodia Daily’ article for further details.

BY AUN PHEAP | FEBRUARY 18, 2016 | អានជាភាសាខ្មែរ

Eng Bunheang, the much-crit­icized governor of Mondol­kiri province, will be replaced by his deputy today in a ceremony pre­sided over by Interior Min­ister Sar Kheng, according to officials.

While the government maintains that Mr. Bunheang is only being replaced because he has reached retirement age—he is 60—-activists and rights workers sus­pect his removal is related to dis­content he has created among in­digenous communities and his failure to curb rampant illegal logging in the eastern province.

Mr. Bunheang, a CPP stalwart and former deputy governor, was ap­pointed governor of the prov­ince in 2013. Now, less than three years later, he will be replaced by his own deputy, Svay Sam Eang, ac­cording to Interior Ministry spokesman Khieu Sopheak.

“His age requires him to be re­tired,” he said. “Mr. Bunheang will be sent to work at the Interior Min­istry, but the upper level has not yet appointed him to a specific position.”

Asked to explain why Mr. Bun­heang was too old to lead the pro­vincial government but still able to serve the state, General Sopheak said only that such a transfer was “natural.”

Eang Mengly, a provincial investigator for rights group Adhoc, said the move appeared to be anything but.

“We don’t know the real reason for his removal,” Mr. Mengly said. “But last year, the communities filed complaints to the Interior Min­istry and the National As­sembly, as well as the Council of Min­isters, requesting the removal of the governor because they were angry that he revoked freedoms and violated human rights.”

In October, some 900 members of 17 ethnic Bunong communities in Mondolkiri thumb-printed a pe­tition calling for Mr. Bunheang to be ousted and sent it to the In­terior Min­istry. The document ac­cused the governor of preventing the com­munities from marching on In­ternational Day of the World’s In­digenous Peoples and turn­ing a blind eye to their many land disputes. The ministry re­sponded by asking the governor to explain his actions.

Other appeals sent to the government conveyed the communities’ frustration that Mr. Bunheang had seemingly done nothing to pre­vent the illegal logging that has been devastating the forests on which the groups depend, according to Mr. Mengly.

Kroeung Tola, a representative of Mondolkiri’s many Bunong com­munities, said he was convin­ced that Mr. Bunheang was being re­placed as a result of the groups’ ac­tivism, in particular their threat to de­fect from the CPP in upcoming elections, having been loyal supporters of the ruling party in previous polls.

“Our people voted in order to help the governor. But in the end, the governor mistreated the people,” he said. “I think the removal of the provincial governor occurred be­cause our minority people threatened to not vote for the CPP if the gov­ernment did not remove the governor.”

Neither Mr. Bunheang nor his re­placement, Mr. Sam Eang, could be reached Wednesday.

More later :)

4 weddings and a funeral

Tents plunked everywhere ...

It’s Sunday afternoon and we’re still bursting with joy.  Voleak and I spent the best part of the weekend in Phnom Penh’s charming chaos with 2 bubbly Khmer technicians to finalize the ‘technical’ details of our project before it's printed.   As per usual, plowing through the traffic in PP, Kevin compared it to the reversal of the *Tonlé Sap analogy; where some streets are blocked with congested motorists, with monstrous ‘lexus’  cars, motorbikes, cyclists, tuk tuks, manually pulled two wheel wagons, you name it and the clogged traffic is stationary.    Resembling the Tonlé Sap River’s high water volume, once the plug is eventually pulled out, the water flow is released, in the same way that the traffic flow is released when the light turns green and motorists are back in motion.    And , for the more adventurous motorists, some with whistles at that to make a statement,  who dare to charge forward, on side walks and alike, with some maneuvering here and there, can ‘sketchily’ bypass the slow moving traffic :)

The month of January was very busy indeed, excitingly busy filled with a constellation of this and that …

In early January we celebrated the opening of Callum’s new restaurant and relished an abundance of food, drinks for a mere $2.00.   It is now cassava season and cassava trucks, excessively jam-packed, with heavy bags of cassava,  are  now being shipped to Vietnam.    On our way to Phnom Penh, one of the cassava trucks toppled to its side on the winding highland road because it was overloaded with cassava; luckily no one was hurt.   ‘Tis also passion and mango fruit season and, there’s ample fruit to be had - yummy!  Talking about yummy food, our community down below is still alive and well, and they (landlord/landlady) continue to bring us food to our apartment; likewise we have done the same.   Next door, the communal family (siblings, husband and wife with baby) has also hopped on the bandwagon to share their meal with us.  One of them had prepared a special coconut desert with fruit and some type of bean  that we did not recognize, and, because of the language barrier we were unable to decipher what it was.

It’s been a month where weddings are now in full swing with a number tents and loudspeakers plunked in the middle of roads everywhere in town, blocking and redirecting traffic on the opposite direction.  The loudspeakers of course  is set up high up either on trees or tent tops for everyone to hear the pounding 'loud' music and to take part in this unique experience or shall I say, a special occasion? :)   Equally special, wedding invitations are forever beautifully adorned in colourful Khmer glitter letters wrapped with ribbons, sequences; typically a reflection of the bride and groom’s attire.  And yes; we were invited yet to 4 more weddings and this time we attended them all.  Around that same period, we visited with Robin, a former Cuso/VSO volunteer who told us that weddings in many parts of the world, are usually communal affairs,  where anyone and everyone is invited.  We also went to a 100-day funeral where mourners brought offering for their deceased relative.   It’s been  officially confirmed that the police can now pull anyone to the side of the road, can pull any vehicle to the side of the road, charge them a fee and keep 70% of the profit :)  

January was a month where we had the Annual Congress Conference at the education complex to review the progresses made over the school year, address the challenges - the concerns and the next steps.    Over the month, we  also did a number of follow-up visits in the village schools where roads have now turned to powdery red and tricky to ride on.

We now have a new visitor within our midst. Kermit the ‘champagne’ frog hides in the toilet tank with his head stuck out  by day to keep cool, and by night, he reveals himself on the bathroom wall :)

On that delightful note, we wish you happy reading, lots of laughter and a safe, wonderful, exciting February!

More later …. :)

*‘The annual fluctuation of the Mekong’s water volume, as a result of the monsoon ,causes the unique flow of the reversal of the Tonlé Sap River.’

Happy 2016

- listen to your heart sing   

Birds singing, orchestrating the background hums of roosters crowing at the break of dawn to ring the New Year in.  We noticed on this fine morning, that the avocado tree  facing our Verenda is flowering for the first time in three years, since we’ve been here . What a beautiful start of the morning, a start of the New Year.  

Yes, we thought long and hard about our wish for all you this year.  Together with good health and happiness, we've added an extra hope for 2016,  another wish for you to experience something extra and wonderful: friendship, a skill that captures your imagination, a job that offers fulfillment, and, of course, new things in your life that will make your heart sing.

On our arrival to our usual guesthouse in Phnom Penh, we were greeted by a number of jovial Tuk Tuk drivers whom we use regularly to go about our daily ins and outs, meetings and so forth … ‘Papa – Happy New Year – Swaseday Ch’nam Tmey!’  they shouted in a chorus.   Some shook our hands, others gave us a hug and a pat on the back.   Whilst we were in PP, we also went to Hans’ place for dinner to join his new baby  and Cambodian partner.  He had prepared a special Dutch hors d'oeuvre composed of anise and sweet crackers; typically to mark the New Year in Holland.   We first met Hans in MDK working on a Science project with VSO.  Hans had worked for VSO off and on for the past 12 years and now is presently coordinating  a Science project in 10 high schools throughout Cambodia.

Along with the same theme, in the New Year, we ran into Yves who was in the midst of doing a visa run when we saw him.  Yves was one of the former Cuso/VSO Volunteers in MDK with us, and is now doing a short term volunteer contract for Cuso International in Myanmar.

On our return from our conference in Phnom Penh, we were saddened to find that the garden lady’s vegetable plot was recently replaced with a shabby saffron road overlooking the surrounding lake.  Is this progress in the name of 'future' tourism?    There’s even a set of wooden chalets that’s been speedily erected within the vicinity, as I speak.

On a more upbeat note, don't forget to do something special you've been longing to do. Then ... listen to your heart sing.

More  later ... :)

The Girl with the Blue Bicycle

- growing by leaps and bounds   

Tea 'cozy' hats, duffel coats warn everywhere throughout Mondolkiri. ...  

In early December, it turned breezy, windy and yes, dusty; leaving a film of dust in every crevices you can imagine; nostrils , mouths, you name it ...  and it's there. The little Bunong market, spread out on the airstrip is shrinking each day due to cold, windy, dusty weather that is expected to stay for the next 6 to 8 weeks :(   

December was just as hectic as last month in a nice sort of way; Heather and Matt from Canada came to visit us and we caught up on all the Guelphite news :)  Both high school and elementary students thoroughly cleaned the school grounds, the education complex, and, within the vicinity (over the period of December) – a milestone to  become a change for Cambodia.      

It’s been a month where the partnership review (PR), planned mid month, was presented by yours truly the last minute since the education manager from the CO in Phnom Penh was new?    Panic!  Swamped with a number of deadline projects, and the copy machine out of function once again,  we went to town to copie  the documents; ‘unwittingly’ taking for granted that it would be done without a hitch – Not so!  Wherever you go to have things done, you have to expect the unexpected and to not take it for granted that things are going to run smoothly for you – such as making one to two copies to prepare for a very important presentation:)  Patience is truly a virtue – so they say.   Novuth, knowing that their was much to do to organize for the PR, came to the rescue once again to help set up and, off course  prepared all of the Khmer chars, using his beautiful ‘signature’ Khmer hand writing.  To my delight despite the initial panic and sketchy copie machine , it was very well attended and everyone came that was invited:)   Without the help of such a great team, the presentation would never have been as well organized and presented at such short notice.   

Elsewhere in Sen Monorom, every morning, the girl with the blue bicycle, too large for her to ride, began practicing her new acquire skills of riding this 'monstrous' bike, up and down the hill on our road; getting off and on her bike for a pause, for a breather.  After about a week or so, she graduated  from falling off her bike, to steadying and staying on it.   Through sheer perseverance, by mid December, she appeared to be more confident riding her bike up the road, down the hill and to school.   A few weeks ago, we noticed that not only was she riding her bike more comfortably,  the girl with the blue bicycle was riding a passenger at the back of her bike;  it was her young brother sitting on the back metal grid holding on tightly to the girl's waist .  What delightful Progress to watch the girl with the blue bicycle grow by leaps and bound

 
More later ... :)