Sunday 28 February 2016

Anyone for a unique experience?

- in getting a hair wash the Khmer way ...? 

Bunong market 
Tap Tap Tap.  Hands frantically beating motorbike seats, to brush away the red dust that's accumulated over a brief stop to shop at the now shrunk little Bunong market on the open airstrip.

Tap Tap Tap.   With already 'dusty' cloths, colleagues at work, hit their desks several times a day to clear the dust away from their books, their computers, their documents only to find that the reddish-brown powdery dust  landed on their faces.

ta-ap ta-ap ta-ap.  Careful not to intrude on the talcum powder dust, carefully stepping one foot forward on the dusty stairs, the dust still bellows up and lands on our feet, legs, everywhere :) 

Bush fires everywhere
February was no different than the last two months; we had dusty, blustery cold days, accompanied by continual fragments of loud shutters banging against walls, dogs yelping day and night, motorbikes roaring past, endless talks and, laughter – a good problem, from the community below, and more of this and that, that rolled together like a ball and landed onto our veranda.    Added to the racket,  earlier this month, some of our neighbours who are of Chinese descent marked the Chinese New Year by lighting firecrackers and burning paper money for good fortune, happiness, longevity...   Despite the good intentions of this worthwhile celebration, the remains, the ashes from our neighbours, blew in the air and swiftly landed in our veranda.  Not to mention, the combination of our well-known  ‘friendly’ reddish-brown dust, together with smoke from nearby bush-fires that too, quietly snuck in the house when we weren’t looking :)   Despite, it's never-ending vortex of action in and out of our house,  at sundown, our eyes will naturally divert to the peaceful brilliant sky that offers stunning sunsets and lets you forget all, at least for a short while.  

It’s been a month with many activities and events, in particular with work.  In courtesy of VSO Cambodia, I gave another presentation to the new VSO volunteers during their ICO (formerly ICT) training, this time, on ‘Networking in the workplace’.  While we were in Phnom Penh, Tralore and I had another unique ‘hair washing’ experience, the Khmer way, at the diamond in the rough little salon. As always we were greeted with a warm welcome. And of course, while Tralore and I were having a good hair 'scrub', together with a good head-shoulder-neck massage. Wow., Kevin spent time talking to the local men that soon surrounded the little salon.  (See post: March 21, 2015 - Diamond in the Rough)  During our short time in Phnom Penh, we also, had the opportunity to reconnect with Dararoth, former VSO education manager to play catch-up with our by-monthly news. 

Rubber tree plantation
On our return to Mondolkiri, from a workshop in Phnom Penh,  as per usual,  during our  5 1/2 hour minivan ride with Virak Bumthum Express,  the journey  still seem to be composed of three main parts with the view that changes with the season.  On our way out of Phnom Penh, though the roads have improved 100%, we inevitably hit a traffic jam  just at the bottom of the Tonlé Sap ramp before our ride begins to speed up to the start of the first stretch  from Phnom Penh to Memot. The country side is mostly made up of flat open rice fields, now mostly bone dry in the scorching hot sun, due to lack of rain;  In the horizon are buffalos looking for, of what’s left, trickled water here and there to cool themselves off, ox,  and, beautiful pink lotuses, in sync with the wind, barely dance in the now trickled water that will soon dry up to cracked soil, that will sadly resemble the rice fields.  The second stretch of the journey, from Memot to Sneoul changes and is replaced with rubber tree plantations, Kempot pepper farms,  cassava farms that line the main National road.   The last stretch to the beautiful hills of Mondolkiri, my favourite part of the journey, the view is composed mainly of  dense forests, open green lush grassland dotted with humble homes in the highlands, skylined with bright coloured attire working in the fields.

Training workshop on the value of education
Back in Mondolkiri, February was a month where we did a number of workshop trainings and follow-ups  in and out of the villages and at the education complex.   This included the 3rd week of this month, aka Technical Thursday, where we went to Kaov Seima district to train teachers, school directors and village chiefs on the document that was printed last month; On the value of education.  The training  was done in two parts:  what sustainability in the school system looked like - keeping children in school, equity and inclusion, and, how to best implement this tool, these activities in the classroom to raise awareness on the value of education.  The second part of the workshop entailed why children dropped out of school and what educators and the community can do to overcome these problems.

Winner of poster competition 
Wood for building a new school
Elsewhere in the villages, we also went to Sre Y Village school to train teachers, the school chief, students  and members of the community with the same aforementioned topic, and, at the same time to hand out the books ‘The road to prosperity –my education –my life’  to teachers and to the winners of the poster competition.   Unfortunately, the first winner was unable to collect her book, because she was out in the forest collecting resin with her family. We  did however, return to the school later for a follow up, and luckily the 13 year girl who was away collecting resin with her family, was at school for the  follow up activities and to collect her book.   Moreover, during our follow-up visit at Sre Y village school, we were told that Caritas, a long term NGO who had
Follow-up activities 
previously helped this village with a number of health projects, had planned to  build a  brand new school for the people, for Sre Y Village School now that the road to the village is in better condition and equipment can easily be transported to the village.   We saw wooden planks strewn everywhere and children who saw the school, temporarily, transformed into a huge playground, bounced up and down these planks using them like teeter totters or seesaws . The  school chief, not at all amused by this, had to repeatedly remind the children to stop playing on the planks, because the newly cut wood was for building a school,  a brand new school for them - the children.  Construction is to begin the first week of April, during the children’s 3 week Khmer New Year
holiday :) 

After one of our training at the education complex in Sen Monorom Town, my helmet mysteriously went missing for an overnight ride.  The traveling helmet travelled from one village to another and ended up, first, at HunSen Sen Monorom School ,and finally landed at one of the cluster chief’s house in Sen Monorom.  Rationale:  someone had confused it with someone else’s motorbike helmet :)

Baby Alice 
Other news, GreeN garbage containers made out of rubber, from nearby rubber trees, now line the streets of Sen Monorom Town.  The town recently won a prize for being green and keeping the city clean.  Indeed a definite milestone for Cambodia!  

February was a month of delight, where we, Kevin and I went to yet to another wedding, this time, to one of our neighbour’s wedding.  We sat with a group of jovial men who wanted an English lesson from us, asking if they could practice their oral English with us.    Added to this delight, of asking us for a small favour, one of my Khmer translator - Voleak, one of my assistant’s mother who had a beautiful baby girl, had asked if she could name her newborn baby, Alice.  Further, as a way of celebrating Valentines’ day, my Khmer/Bunong women colleagues from work, took me out for a surprise lunch,  for a delicious bowl of Khmer vegetable noodle soup with spring rolls, at the little family food stall just off  the Hun Sen Sen Monorom High School campus.  We were gone from work   for more than two hours  - from 2 to 4:30 pm - and,  went home from work at 5 pm :) 

On that delightful note, Happy Valentinés day to all you  – wishing you fun reading and lots of laughter ..

More later:)

Thursday 25 February 2016

In the blink of an Eye


Time has passed quickly with only two months left to go ....

Music blaring, dogs barking, electrical saws roaring away as if there is no tomorrow …  How unusual!  How is it possible for a small rural town, of 10,000 people, to generate so much hullabaloo?

A Tsunami of thoughts rushes through my head.  Yes, the time is nearing and soon it will be time to pack, to leave?   
 I am reminded by the thought that I still have a zillion things to do; trainings, follow-ups, tying loose ends and off course getting rid of all the stuff that we’ve accumulated at home and at work before our exit.  Except that my thoughts are constantly interrupted by the noise, the wind bellowing in and out of the verandah, accompanied by a swirl of reddish brown dust that lands everywhere in our open element house.  We’re further interrupted by the landlady, who this time has come up, not to give us food,  but to give us yet another floor washing demonstration, to wash the saffron red dust off the floorboards that will stay clean for mere seconds… 

It’s hard to believe that we’ve been here for almost 3 years, but somehow it feels like only yesterday, when we had just arrived, having had an adrenaline rush of meeting new people, learning a new language … being introduced to a new culture …. it truly feels as if we've simply passed through the Kingdom of Wonder in the blink of an eye …   And, yes, with a snap of a finger, the two months that we have left  here, will vanish just like that!  

Alright, it’s time to dry myself from my cool shower, put some coconut oil to keep my skin moist from the wind, have breakfast, gather my things for work :)

More later :)

Thursday 18 February 2016

Bunong Voices

... Mondolkiri 's Governor Replaced

Today, on the air strip, a ceremony, well attended by government officials,  (including the POE staff), was conducted by the Ministry of Interior Affairs, to appoint a new Governor for Mondolkiri province.  See below ‘The Cambodia Daily’ article for further details.
Eng Bunheang, the much-crit­icized governor of Mondol­kiri province, will be replaced by his deputy today in a ceremony pre­sided over by Interior Min­ister Sar Kheng, according to officials.
While the government maintains that Mr. Bunheang is only being replaced because he has reached retirement age—he is 60—-activists and rights workers sus­pect his removal is related to dis­content he has created among in­digenous communities and his failure to curb rampant illegal logging in the eastern province.
Mr. Bunheang, a CPP stalwart and former deputy governor, was ap­pointed governor of the prov­ince in 2013. Now, less than three years later, he will be replaced by his own deputy, Svay Sam Eang, ac­cording to Interior Ministry spokesman Khieu Sopheak.
“His age requires him to be re­tired,” he said. “Mr. Bunheang will be sent to work at the Interior Min­istry, but the upper level has not yet appointed him to a specific position.”
Asked to explain why Mr. Bun­heang was too old to lead the pro­vincial government but still able to serve the state, General Sopheak said only that such a transfer was “natural.”
Eang Mengly, a provincial investigator for rights group Adhoc, said the move appeared to be anything but.
“We don’t know the real reason for his removal,” Mr. Mengly said. “But last year, the communities filed complaints to the Interior Min­istry and the National As­sembly, as well as the Council of Min­isters, requesting the removal of the governor because they were angry that he revoked freedoms and violated human rights.”
In October, some 900 members of 17 ethnic Bunong communities in Mondolkiri thumb-printed a pe­tition calling for Mr. Bunheang to be ousted and sent it to the In­terior Min­istry. The document ac­cused the governor of preventing the com­munities from marching on In­ternational Day of the World’s In­digenous Peoples and turn­ing a blind eye to their many land disputes. The ministry re­sponded by asking the governor to explain his actions.
Other appeals sent to the government conveyed the communities’ frustration that Mr. Bunheang had seemingly done nothing to pre­vent the illegal logging that has been devastating the forests on which the groups depend, according to Mr. Mengly.
Kroeung Tola, a representative of Mondolkiri’s many Bunong com­munities, said he was convin­ced that Mr. Bunheang was being re­placed as a result of the groups’ ac­tivism, in particular their threat to de­fect from the CPP in upcoming elections, having been loyal supporters of the ruling party in previous polls.
“Our people voted in order to help the governor. But in the end, the governor mistreated the people,” he said. “I think the removal of the provincial governor occurred be­cause our minority people threatened to not vote for the CPP if the gov­ernment did not remove the governor.”
Neither Mr. Bunheang nor his re­placement, Mr. Sam Eang, could be reached Wednesday.

More later :)