Friday 29 April 2016

Lunch with Sophal and Sophek


Workshop in Khoe Nhiek Village
Workshop at POE
As predicted, the last two months  had indeed past quickly.   In two months we magically squeezed in many activities and events …  we conducted many training workshops and follow ups in town , at the education complex in Sen Monorom, and in the villages.  We tied loose ends with my two assistants’ in closing their contracts, arranged to return my motorbike to  Phnom Penh and organized more of this and that before our leave ….  Over the month of April, we had some major celebrations with friends and neighbours and sorted things out that we wanted to give away, mainly to POE staffs and to friends.   In the end, our major packing took 5 days …  to give our things away that we had accumulated over a period of 3 years -furniture, kitchen utensils, hoards of clothes and more.. .

Lunch with POE Colleagues 
April was a month with many farewell parties to send us off to new adventures.  Sukhon and Savy, our landlord/lady made a large chicken coconut casserole currie with banana fritters for us to share with neighbours, ICS youths who lived down below us and Biju, VSO volunteer. Oh, and before we left Mondolkiri, Sukhon insited that we take a batch of avocados, (freshly snagged from his avocado trees) South with us :)  OuDom and his wife, owners of Mondolkiri Pizza, made a special Khmer New Year’s dinner for us and even made us  a large pizza for us to take home that we ended up sharing it with our little community down below.   We also caught up with Hans and his VA for an evening drink before he returned to Phnom Penh from his intensive 3 day Science Training Workshop that he had for teachers and school directors.  As for the POE side of things, my female colleagues at work took us out for lunch at the Khmer Kitchen restaurant in town, and my male colleagues,  together with my VA, Heng Voleak took us out for breakfast. 

Lunch with Sophal and Sophek 
Sophal and Sophek, whom we met at the beginning of our journey in Cambodia and who we worked with off and on throughout our time here, had a farewell lunch for us.  They just had a baby boy and Leida, now 6 years old, was in charge of looking after his baby brother whilst Sophek and I prepared lunch – see post: A morning with Sophek - Saturday, February 14, 2015. 

Mid April, after we left Sen Monorom, we spent a few days South for the Khmer New Year where Cambodian flags gently swayed in the wind,  stood smart and tall lining every corner of every street that we passed.   Whilst in transit, my exit pass took place at the country office with Onno in Phnom Penh, and, at the same time took the opportunity of spending an afternoon with Dararoth and his beautiful family before we were off for a two week spell in Cambodia’s neighbouring country, Laos.  UK will be our next stop before we fly home to Canada ….

POE colleagues 
Breakfast with POE colleauges








It’s hard to believe that an exodus of VSO volunteers have now left their placements in Cambodia and this time we were part of the mob!  

More later ... :)

Friday 22 April 2016

Laos


Referred to its colloquial name ‘Lao’, Lao is unique in that it's a landlocked country - smack in the heart of mainland southeast Asia, framed by a number of neigbouring countries: Myanmar and China in the northwest, Vietnam to the east, Cambodia to the south and Thailand  to the west.

Whilst in Lao we visited 3 places:
Vientiane, the laid back capital city  of Lao, is mixed with French colonial architecture and Budhist temples.  There are also lots of yummy French bakeries, cafĂ©s, and delicious decadent food to choose from ... :)


overlooking the magnificent cliffs  of VanVieng
Vang Vieng midway between Vientiane and Luang Prabang boasts some very prominent serene rugged cliffs.  Down below are kayakers, (that's us),  thoroughly enjoying the river ride whilst lulled , from one end to another by the gorgeous view.

Buddhist Temple
Taking a midmorning nap
On route north to the Unesco World Heritage  protected Site , Luang Prabang, a.k.a. the ancient royal capital of Laos, lies in  a valley where time stands still with Buddhist temples and a panoramic view of bright orange –clad monks dotted throughout.  It’s a place with quaint colourful mosaic markets, food stalls, outdoor cafĂ©s lined along the Mekong and the Nam Khan Rivers …

Luang Prabang had many waterfalls to visit,  elephant rides in the woodlands, trekking in the vicinity and biking around town which we gloriously enjoyed 

colourful mosaic
Kouang Si Waterfall
Elephant ride in the woodlands

More later ... :)


















Sunday 17 April 2016

Cambodia Today and Yesterday


Looking through the lens of a young Novuth 

Kheav Novuth
One day last month, whilst I was tying loose ends with my activities, sorting things out with teaching materials, with numerous resources I wanted to give away, mainly to teachers from remote villages, Novuth who helped to sort them out with Voleak and I,  told me that he wanted to share with me the ‘inconceivable’ things that he - as a small boy - his family and the people he lived with in Kampong Thom, had experienced during the Khmer Rouge Regime. Of course, I gladly agreed to hear and to write about his story – Looking through the lens of a young Novuth ...

A Glimpse of yesterday - during the Khmer Rouge Regime
Before the Khmer Rouge forces entered Phnom Penh, young Kheav Novuth lived peacefully with his family; his parents, and 5 siblings - 3 sisters and 2 brothers - in one of the many labyrinth alleys tucked  away in a community bursting with joy, in a community tucked away at the ‘Ph’sar’ -  at the Old Market in Phnom Penh, where life took a hold of itself, where children played, where produce, clothing, jewelry, nick knacks were sold from the hundred stalls that dotted the lanes, that lay inside and outside the narrow alleys.   It was a time of freedom, a time for anyone to come and go as s/he pleased … 

Translating welcome sign to Khmer
However, on April 17, 1975 when the Khmer Rouge came into power, it took control of Cambodia,  of his life  …  And, the life of the Cambodian people changed forever, turning the country upside down,  into a huge detention centre! 

7 year old Novuth, together with his family and many others were rounded off, like cattle, to walk approximately 185 kilometres, north from Phnom Penh, to the ‘Grand Port’ - to the Kampong Thom  banks of  Stoueng Sen River that borders the TonlĂ© Sap Lake  and branches out to the TonlĂ© Sap River, south, toward Phnom Penh.  Aside from Mondolkiri province, Kampong Thom is Cambodia’s largest province by area. Novuth sadly reflecting on the evacuation period ‘During the evacuation period in Phnom Penh and other cities into the countryside to undertake agriculture work, thousands of people died’.

Despite the 3 years he  and his family endured under the rule of the Khmer Rouge, a stroke of luck came Novuth’s way, ‘my family and I, we all moved together to the  same detention camp where we stayed together in Kampong Thom during the 3 year rule.  However, despite this stroke of luck,  we were separated and we only saw each other periodically … maybe once every 6 months or once a year.’  

End product
'Because we came from the city, we were called the New People .'   'Each day was different for us.  Each day we worked with different people, with different adults in the rice fields.  There were days however, we, children who were 7 years and under, were instructed to work in the forest  to collect 30 kilos of buffalo dung to fertilize the rice fields. .  We did this from the crack of dawn to evening . If however, we returned to the camp with not enough dung, we were either punished, sent back to the forest, or we were assigned to another job until the Khmer Rouge soldiers were satisfied.  ‘As for the older children, children who were 12 years old and up,  they stayed in the villages to take care of babies and to keep an ‘eye’ on the adults to report unusual activities.’

Reflecting on the past, Novuth claimed that ‘Group 1's  main job, the adult group’s job,  was to  work in the rice fields, take care of livestock: buffalos and ox and, to create fish ponds.’  He went on to describe the horror of his 3 years at the camp,  ‘in my camp, every adult was expected to grow and harvest rice throughout the year  -rain or shine. My people were forced to work more than 12 hours a day without rest or enough food to eat.’   Further,  ‘The "new people" were treated as forced labourers. We constantly moved, were forced to do the hardest physical labour, and worked in the most inhospitable, fever-ridden parts of the country, such as forests, upland areas, and swamps.  The "New people" were segregated from the "Old People," enjoyed little or no privacy, and received the smallest rice rations.  I think that  we, the "new people" suffered the most. 

Methodically reviewing the Khmer version The Road to Prosperity 'my education - my life'
Added to the horror, Novuth explained that ‘life got much worse throughout the 3 year period.  People were killed for numerous reasons; if they were educated,  had a profession, wore glasses, broke the rules, stole food, to name a few, they were automatically shot.’   Food was scarce, and increasingly got scarce throughout the 3 years … Food was closely supervised by the guard’s’.    We had very little rice to eat.  The Khmer Rouge told the people that there wasn’t enough rice for us to eat.   Later, we found out that the rice we grew and harvested was sent to China.'
  
Food and Visitation Privileges
‘As a boy, I remember that we were allowed to have  seasonal food at different times of the year, which was a real luxury for us. In the dry season we had  papaya, morning glory, water lily, and,  in the rainy season, we had  pumpkin, gourd, corn.  But we always had a tiny portion of rice.’   ‘What’s more, every 6 months - everyone, children and adults got together to  make pumpkin or sticky rice desert  with tiny portions of refined sugar. However, the Khmer Rouge kept  the palm sugar  for themselves and did not share it with anyone.’

‘We were also allowed to see our family. Though we were separated for long periods, once every 6 months my older sister had permission to receive me for a short visit.    Once a year, I was allowed to visit with one other member of my family; my mother, my brothers or one of my sisters.   After being in the detention camp for almost a year, my father became very ill, and I was given permission to live with my father until he got well again.’
  
Presenting at the 2016 Annual Congress Conference 
Today - a New Life ...
After the fall of the Khmer Rouge Regime, Novuth and his family (except for his younger sister) settled in Kampong Cham, Novuth’s father’s birthplace.    Novuth sadly recollects his younger sister’s last days before starvation took her life.  ‘My sister developed a high fever before we moved to Kampong Cham and she didn’t make it to see the next day.’   His father however, who recovered from his illness, returned to his old profession as a pharmacist and passed away ‘at a ripe old age of 65 considering the traumatic experience my father went through’.   His mother who previously worked as a seller in one of the many Ph’sar’s stalls in Phnom Penh had set up a produce shop near their family home.   Equally welcoming a new life for the rest of his siblings,  a fresh start awaited them -  they had the luxury to attend school.    At 16,  Novuth (not his real age, no identity proof of his real age) completed grade 8.  In 1986, his father proud of his son’s achievement sent him to receive a higher education where Novuth completed grade 10.

Novuth and I holding an updated Khmer Grade 2 Reading Training Workshop with Cluster Chiefs 
In 1989 Novuth moved to Sen Monorom, Mondolkiri provinve to work as a primary teacher at the only small country school in Sen Monorom Town.   Between late 1989 - 1990, the school sent Novuth to  study at the New Stung Treng Primary Teachers’ College Centre .  Novuth explains, ‘I had 3 years of study,  because I had grade 10.  However, if  I had had a grade 12 education, than I  would have done a  2 year teaching programme. ‘   Novuth with a smile  and energized by his own achievement, by today’s  transformation in education, Novuth proudly  boasts,  ‘Stung Treng Teacher’s College has come a long way since I went there.  Since my 15 years of generation, there are now 15 different teaching programmes, which is a good thing, especially for the Bunong Inservice Teachers who can now attend teachers college with a grade 9 high school certificate.’ 

Onwards and upwards, built in 1960, Novuth taught grade 4 for 3 years in the only ‘little’ country school in Sen Monorom Town.    At that time, Novuth mentioned that he was surprised to find that some of his students were older than the teachers, that they were older than him.   He also mentioned that Sen Monorom School changed its name to Hun Sen Sen Monorom School after the fall of the Khmer Rouge.  Hun Sen Sen Moronorm Primary School is now the largest school in Mondolkiri province boasting over 1,000 students, with many classes each composed of 4 of the same grade. E.g. there are 4 grades 1 classes etc…

Novuth, as per usual came to the rescue and translated all my charts for my workshop
Novuth quickly worked through the education ranks  and between 1994 to 2009 he  worked at the DOE  as a cluster chief for Sen Monorom district where new schools were being built in the vicinity.   In 2009 Novuth transferred to the POE  who’s building, at that time, was still part of the Hun Sen Sen Momorom Primary School.  Whilst there, he  again rose ranks very quickly and eventually became the Primary Deputy Officer in the Primary Wing of the POE education complex that now exists today.

Today, Novuth happily lives with his wife, who too is from Kampong Cham,  and with  his 3 daughters, ages 19, 15, 9.  Though his wife is also a teacher by trade, she has opted to be a full time mother.   As part of her full day job as a mother,  every morning she and Novuth set up shop; a breakfast stall at Hun Sen Sen Monorom School to sell breakfast to school children.   

Asked how he felt about life today in the beautiful hills of Mondolkiri? Novuth replied ‘I’m very happy, because I enjoy my job; I also like the temperate climate of Mondolkiri.    Most importantly,  my immediate family and extended family are all here in Mondolkiri with me.  For the Khmer New Year, like every other year, my whole family celebrates it in Kampong Cham.  ‘It’s a tradition that we want to keep!’

 Today marks 41 years of Cambodia liberation ...    On that liberation note, A very Happy and a Prosperous Khmer New Year to all you! 

A quick word from me …
A wonderful friend  ... 
Kheav Novuth, one of my partners, a ‘rare’ opportunity to work with someone of his caliber for near 3 years,  I found myself extremely lucky to have  shared our different skills from the Khmer/Western point of view, (with him) and,  together, to have this rare chance to  build the capacity of  teachers, school directors, cluster chiefs and POE staffs.   Though, he was both a partner and a colleague, Novuth  was also a mentor who helped me cope with some of the challenges that I would not have been able to cope  with on my own was he not there for me; I had the opportunity to learn as much as I could from him; the ins and outs of the culture , the challenges  I was experiencing with my work.  Most importantly, Novuth was always by my side when I delivered training workshops, and, batted for me during some ‘sensitive’ political issues that sometimes I ended up in the middle of a ‘struggle’ between what VSO wanted and what the POE wanted.  Novuth always went the extra mile for me!  (See post: December 23, 2015 - Going the Extra Mile). 

It was truly a pleasure to work with Novuth – he opened his heart and gave his friendship!

More later ... :)